Tuesday, December 27, 2011
Chapter Eight requires that five paper relief surfaces made for Chapter 3 are each translated into two different ways in fabric. For an easy reference I have placed both the photographic record from Chapter 1 (on the left) and its related paper relief surface from Chapter 3 (on the right) before the picture of each fabric sample.
Fabric sample 1 – First translation into fabric
The background is a layer of stitch and tear support irregularly wrinkled and sewn to a sheet of paper. On it fragments of different fabrics torn and shredded in imitation of rust “pebbles” (grey organza, cheesecloth, tulle net, cream-coloured jersey). Technique: appliqué.
Fabric sample 2 – Second translation into fabric
For this second interpretation in fabric I made a sandwich of a printed cotton, grey lining, curtain fabric and tarlatan, stitched them all together with randomly wavy lines and cut irregular diamond areas to reveal the background layer in different ways. Technique: wadded quilting.
Fabric sample 3 – First translation into fabric
For the background I burnt an old linen sheet with a candle in different areas and fixed it on a layer of soft kunin felt distressed along its edges. This background was then ripped and partially mended. Melted strips of synthetic net were stitched on it. Through the main gush at the centre different materials flourish from the bottom. Techniques: burnt and melted edges, appliqué, wadded quilting.
Fabric sample 4 – Second translation into fabric
For this second interpretation I wanted to obtain a less textured surface with a shallow relief. Techniques: wadded quilting, appliqué, machine embroidery.
Fabric sample 5 – First translation into fabric
For this heavily textured surface I prepared a substantial background with a sandwich of different fabrics, embroidered it, and made big tucks in all directions. I finished by padding some areas from the back. Techniques: wadded quilting, tucking, padded quilting.
Fabric sample 6 – Second translation into fabric
Techniques: shaped quilting (for the rust “pebbles”), free machine embroidery in the recessed areas.
Thursday, December 1, 2011
I have finally put together my group of tactile samples!
From top to bottom and from left to right:
1 Zigzag gathering over a string – Habotai silk
2 Furrowing – Synthetic velvet
3 Wadded quilting – Habotai silk
4 Darts – Woven linen
5 Hand gathering – Cotton canvas
6 Wadded quilting – Habotai silk
7 Partially seamed tucks – Habotai silk
8 Snipped tucks – Habotai silk
9 Cross-tacked tucks – Habotai silk
10 Tucks set with a stay - Cheesecloth
11 Criss-crossing pintucks – Curtain net
12 Hand-gathered fabric strips, stitched together - Muslim
13 Blind tucks – Synthetic net
14 Cording – Tulle net
15 Irregular hand gathering – Kunin felt
16 Padded quilting – Woven cotton
17 Wadded quilting – Fleece padding and tulle net
18 Wadded quilting – String lengths and tulle net
19 Hand gathering with loose wool thread, loops cut and knotted
20 Wadded quilting with rose tea blossoms
21 Padded quilting with ties
22 Blind tucks, then slashed open – Synthetic felt
23 Slashed pintucks - Cheesecloth
24 Contoured tucks – Cotton net
And a couple of more detailed views:
Monday, November 14, 2011
1 Gathered by hand, then set by stitching
2 Machine gathered using a gathering foot
3 Machine gathered, gathering held by zigzag
4 Single-thread machine gathering
5 Wavy hand gathering set by irregular machine-stitching
6 Vertical and horizontal hand gathering
7 Dense machine gathering
8 Two row machine gathering
9 Hand gathering, gathers held by stitching
1 Machine gathering over a length of string
2, 3 Weave threads pulled, gathers held by hand stitching
4 Gathering by binding small wooden beads into the fabric
5 Weave threads pulled, then gentle gathering
I do not have a gathering machine, at least so far, and there is nobody around from whom could borrow it, so I could not try this fascinating method. I remember those beautiful samples made on Alison’s pleater at last year Summer School …Perhaps one day!
Friday, November 11, 2011
For working through this Chapter I used a combination of fabrics, mainly cotton muslim, habotai silk, cheesecloth and other open weaves, some natural and some man-made.
This is a fantastic subject to explore and I feel I just touched the tip of the iceberg, as usual ….
1 Pin tucks
2 Spaced tucks
3 Blind tucks
4 Vertical pin tucks plus horizontal irregular ones
5 Topstitched spaced tucks
6 Box pleats stabilized with running stitch and interlaced
7 Tucks stuffed with plastic straws
8 A doubled and centred tuck with secondary tuck stuffed and decorated
NINE, TEN (top) – ELEVEN, TWELVE (bottom)
9 Rows of contoured tucks, edges of tucks decorated with zigzag stitch
10 Irregular vertical tucks
11 Irregularly slanted tucks in two directions
12 Pin tucks alternating with rows of shell tucks
13 Pleats with undulating and frayed edges
14 Dart tucks
15 Tucks with contoured fringes set by double rows of zigzag stitch
16 Snipped tucks
17 Irregular tucks, snipped
18 Partially seamed tucks crossing horizontally and vertically
19 Simply tied tucks
20 Partially seamed tucks, then joined by stitching
TWENTY-ONE, TWENTY-TWO, TWENTY-THREE
21 Horizontal pin tucks, vertical slanted tucks
22 Network of intersecting pin tucks stitched with twin needles combined with dart tucks
23 Regular tucks criss-crossing on a twin-needled treated fabric
TWENTY-FOUR, TWENTY-FIVE, TWENTY-SIX
24 First layer of slanted tucks, second layer of regular tucks
25 Parallel rows of tucks joined so to form diamond shapes
26 Dart tucks criss-crossing each other then snipped
27 Random loose tucks fixed by stitching
28 Two fabrics covered with tucks, then cut into strips and joined together
Monday, September 19, 2011
PADDED QUILTING SAMPLES
Top layer: habotai silk. Back layer: cotton muslim. Padded areas outlined with twin-needle machine stitching, using a white thread in the needles and a light brown thread in the bobbin. Small holes in the centre punctured with a large hand embroidery needle.
Sample ONE, front
Sample ONE, back
For this second sample the back is shown. For padding natural colour wool fleece is used, the single padded areas are cut with scissors and stitched with a mohair yarn leaving gaps through which the fleece may show.
Cylinders of different sizes, sewn like tucks and stuffed.
Little irregular pillows separately sewn and stuffed, then joined, decorated with pressed paper shapes.
CORDED QUILTING SAMPLES
Encasing of chenille yarn with zigzag stitch.
Cording with twin-needle stitching, back and front on the same side.
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
First post after holidays! I was finally able to put together all samples produced so far for this chapter in the weeks before leaving. Tomorrow I shall get everything ready for getting to work on the second part of Chapter 5.
WADDED QUILTING SAMPLES
All my wadded samples are arranged on a A3 portfolio page
Back: muslim – Padding: light wadding, one layer – Top: jersey
Back: felt – Padding: shredded plastic – Top: light tulle – Stitchery: straight stitch in white and light brown
Back: muslim – Padding: cut threads, fabric bits, tea bags – Top: light tulle
Back: muslim – Padding: wool fleece – Top: cheesecloth
Back: muslim – Padding: light wadding, two layers – Top: habotai silk – Appliqué: cheesecloth
Back: muslim – Padding: wool threads cut short – Top: very open mesh, partially cut in areas to expose wool underneath
SHAPED QUILTING SAMPLES
This second group of samples are somewhat bigger, each measuring approximately 12 x 12 cms
Padding: plastic snowflakes
Top layer: very open mesh
Padding: pressed paper cylinders
Bottom/Top layer: linen net
Padding: foam cardboard shapes
Top layer: net
Padding: knotted wadding
Top layer: habotai silk
Top layer: silver tulle net
SAMPLES OF SHAPES USED FOR PADDING
Wadding strip knotted several times